Saddle sores and persistent ringing in our ears

Apologies for the longish post, but we’ve been without Internet in the wilds of Tuscany for the past several days and have some catching up to do… Vernazza is serious about not sleeping in. This tiny, pastel-colored jewel of the Cinque Terre is dominated by a bell tower that shatters the silence every morning starting …

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Top 12 Revelations About Italy

Italy is one of the most-visited places on earth, with every nook and cranny having been well documented by a multitude of travel writers and photographers. But even after nearly a month here, we regularly encounter people, places, or processes (oh, how the Italians love their inexplicably arcane processes) that surprise or confound us. Of …

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Florence from the Oltrarno

Maureen’s sketch of the day, from a private watercolor lesson she took this morning with J.Isabelle Cornière, an art instructor living and working here in Florence. It was painted en plein air (that’s fancy-artist-talk for “outdoors”) in the Bardini Gardens across the Arno River from the major sights. The “plein air” here has been blazingly …

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Sardines, a saint’s tongue, and Scrovegni airlocks

As we near the end of our two weeks in Venice, we’ve been looking for things to see and do that we might not have gotten around to during a shorter visit. Here are a couple examples of what we’ve been up to after crossing most of the “must-see” sights off the list earlier in …

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Another night, another thunderstorm

This one’s a doozy! I could watch thunder and lightning over the Grand Canal all night. (Hopefully you can, too, since I keep posting these videos…) This is looking out our window in the other direction from the previous video I posted. The building at the right with all the lights is the Venice casino. …

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What’s happening on (and above) the Grand Canal

If it has to move into, out of, or across Venice, then it’s probably moving by boat. Our apartment has three big windows that overlook the Grand Canal, making it a great place to sit and watch the world float by (something Maureen has been doing a lot of, since she’s been stuck indoors for …

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We still stink at shopping!

If strike one was the fiasco at the supermarket, then strike two is what happened at the pharmacy. Or, more precisely, just outside the pharmacy at the vending machine. There are no 24-hour drugstores in Italy (or at least in Venice). Apparently they rotate shifts throughout the day to ensure at least one is always …

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All lost in the supermarket

It’s easy to get lost in Venice. The maze of alleyways (calli), passageways (sottoporteghi) and bridges (ponti) can easily disorient even those with the best sense of direction. But if you keep wandering, you’ll eventually encounter a yellow sign pointing toward one of the major landmarks–Ferrovia train station, Rialto Bridge, or San Marco. Alas, there …

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Tuscany was a bit of a blur

…of course, pretty much anyplace would be from the window seat of a Trenitalia train. It’s been a relaxing change of pace to sit and watch the Tuscan scenery roll past–especially after a frenzied trip from our hotel across town to Termini train station this morning. The friendly folks at the front desk called us …

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Walking dead in the Eternal City

And suddenly we were in Rome, stumbling through the ancient ruins like the subjects of some awful experiment on sleep deprivation. After two days staying up wayyyyy too late at my college reunion pretending I was 21 again, followed by a long day of walking in New York capped by a trans-Atlantic redeye, I was …

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