Walking dead in the Eternal City

The Roman Pantheon at night--miraculously without all those little blue LED flying toys all the vendors sell out front.

The Roman Pantheon at night–miraculously without all those little blue LED flying toys all the vendors sell out front.

And suddenly we were in Rome, stumbling through the ancient ruins like the subjects of some awful experiment on sleep deprivation. After two days staying up wayyyyy too late at my college reunion pretending I was 21 again, followed by a long day of walking in New York capped by a trans-Atlantic redeye, I was toast.

Still am, actually, which is why I’ll be keeping this post short and to the point: We made it to Italy, and our trip-of-a-lifetime is finally underway.

I was so excited about the lay-flat seats in Delta Business Class that I couldn’t sleep a wink (there must be a DSM-5 name for this pathetic condition). After checking in at Hotel Campo de’Fiori, we strolled over to the Capitoline Hill to soak in the view of the ancient Roman Forum. Then it was off to the Doria Pamphilj Gallery where we both fell asleep with our ears pressed to the audio guide in one of the palazzo’s sumptuous rooms.

At this advanced age, there’s no shame in a good afternoon nap (hell, there’s pride in it). So we did that, and then had a pleasant but unremarkable dinner at Hosteria Farnesi near our hotel. A nighttime stroll around Piazza Navona and past the Pantheon sapped what remaining energy we had, and so it was time to call it an earlyish (depending on what time zone you’re using) night.

I still love Rome as much as I did the first time I came here a dozen years ago. It’s loud and dirty and nerve-wracking, but it feels so alive for city with thousands of years of buried history. That first glimpse of the Temple of Saturn from Campidoglio always stops me in my tracks as I confront how “old” in Rome carries an entirely different meaning from the same word back in Northern California.

Long goodbyes and awkward hellos

After months of planning, weeks of second-guessing, and days of eager anticipation, it’s finally time to go! I head to Philly tomorrow morning for my college reunion, our house-sitters show up on Saturday, and Maureen flies out Sunday morning to meet me in New York. Then, on Monday, it’s off to Europe for 2 months. When did everything start happening so quickly?

My view every morning.

My view every morning.

We’re excited about this adventure, but leaving home for such a long stretch is emotionally complicated. There’s so much I’ll miss about life here on the Northern California coast, but nothing quite as much as our beloved dog, Zora. Ever since I left work in March, she’s been my nearly constant companion for morning runs, afternoon walks to the ranch, excursions in Half Moon Bay or Pacifica, and just about everything else. Knowing how excited she gets about our daily two-mile jogs is the biggest motivation to get me up and out each morning. And tomorrow I have to say goodbye to her for two months. I’ll miss you, Z-monster!

We’ll also miss our horses, Pumpkin and Grigio. They’ll be well taken care of by our friends at Moss Beach Ranch, but it’s still hard to imagine two months without making buckets, shoveling manure, or riding the coastal trails. (OK, maybe I won’t miss the manure part…) Last weekend, we decided to see if there was any way they could be in the same pasture while we’re gone. As you can see, it was an interesting, but ultimately unsuccessful experiment:

So, yeah….. Needless to say, they’ll be staying in separate quarters until further notice. And while their living arrangements remain unchanged, ours are in for a big adjustment as we kick off two months as temporary, but enthusiastic, Europeans.

Ciao for now!

Rock on, Rick Steves!

Rockin' Rick!I honestly don’t think anyone has had a bigger impact how we travel than Rick Steves. His guidebooks are our main resource for researching where to go, what to do, and how to save precious time on vacation. We also watch his TV shows, listen to his podcast, use his iPhone app, and read the forums on his website. Even some of our luggage has his name on it. (No, we didn’t steal it from him at baggage claim; he sells it on his website.)

It’s hard to describe what makes Rick Steves’ so appealing. Sure he provides a lot of useful information, but so do other travel guides—often in greater detail or with better photographs and illustrations. And he generally plays it pretty safe with his suggestions, sticking to the popular venues instead of steering readers too far off the beaten path. But his earnest, nerdy charm comes across in everything he does. Reading one of his guidebooks or watching one of his broadcasts, I feel like I learn as much about him as I do about Rome or Paris or wherever. Like millions of travelers, I’ve come to trust advice from “Uncle Rick” more than almost any other source of travel info.

If you’ve ever watched or read or listened to Rick, you probably know what I mean. And I think you’ll appreciate cartoonist Cathy Leamy’s take on her own Rick Steves obsession.

What I’ll miss about work

As excited as I am about the opportunity to take an extended break for the next few months, there are many things I will miss about being at Financial Engines. At the very top of that list is the amazing group of people I worked with there.

Last week, my old team came out to Half Moon Bay for a goodbye lunch, where they gave me a very clever and touching hand-made card. It probably won’t make a lot of sense if you’re not familiar with Financial Engines’ services, but if you have seen their stuff you might get a kick out of the Personal Travel Evaluation they created for me.

I recognize that many people willing to put themselves through the pain and suffering of reading this blog will be the same people who were willing to put themselves through the pain and suffering of working with me. And I’m so grateful for everyone who helped make it such a pleasure to spend almost 10 years at Financial Engines.

What am I going to do for the next month?

In a little over a month, we leave for our 2014 Midlife Crisis Tour (T-shirts for sale at the lobby merch table). We’ll be spending two full months exploring Italy, Switzerland, France, and the US East Coast.

If you know me and how I travel, you’ve probably guessed (correctly) that by now I have every detail planned, confirmed, and double-checked. Plane tickets were bought before Christmas. Hotel rooms and apartments have been reserved for months. Museum admissions and sightseeing tours are booked. Yesterday I even made lunch reservations for a restaurant in France that we won’t get to until the last week of June!

Truth is, I enjoy the research and preparation almost as much as the actual travel. In my preconceived notions of each trip, the weather is always beautiful, the food is always amazing, and there are no crowds anywhere. Sure, this can set me up for disappointment in a real world that is all too often rainy, inedible, and packed with other tourists (usually Germans). But it also makes every day before my vacation feel just a little bit like I’m already there.

And where exactly am I when I’m already there? You can take a virtual pre-trip with me by peeking at our itinerary here. (Yes, “Roz” who created that Google Maps overview is my mom, who is even more of an obsessive trip planner than I am—as evidenced by her creating a map for a trip she’s not even taking!)

Stateside!

After 10+ hours on one flight, nothing beats jumping right on another plane. I’m headed to SFO, Maureen is on her way (I hope!) to DSM.

I was hoping her original seat next to me would still be empty, but no such look. I just need to remember not to fall asleep on the shoulder of the guy next to me now…

C’est fini

Well, I guess that’s it.

We’re in our seats for Air France 694 to Minneapolis, scheduled to depart in 30 minutes (unless they kick us off the plane again like they did on our flight out). Then I head back to San Francisco while Maureen is off to Des Moines for a day, then to a wedding in Kansas City.

It’s been an amazing trip, and I’m honestly not ready for it to end. Time to start planning the next one!

Almost au revoir!

Mon dieu! Our 3-week vacation is almost over. We’ve had an amazing time, including the last two days in and around St-Remy de Provence, and then today outside of Nice in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Time for a quick recap of the highlights and lowlights of our trip, as voted on by us:

Category Mike’s vote Maureen’s vote
Favorite hotel* Hotel du Cite, Carcassonne. Auberge St. Pierre, Mont-St.-Michel.
Worst hotel Best Western Le Champlain, La Rochelle. Best Western Le Champlain, La Rochelle.
Best meal My parents’ 50th anniversary lunch at Auberge St. Jean in St. Emilion. Mike’s parents’ 50th anniversary lunch at Auberge St. Jean in St. Emilion.
Worst meal Fishy-tasting, whipped egg omelet on Mont-St.-Michel. Flunch (fast food on the autoroute).
Favorite tourist site View from the top of Sacre Couer, Paris. Honfleur harbor. (Do you see it?!?)
Most overrated site Versailles. But maybe I was just grumpy. Eiffel Tower.
Most relaxing moment Lunch in the hotel courtyard in St.-Remy. Horseback riding in the Dordogne.
Most stressful moment Getting stuck in the bullfight traffic outside St.-Remy. Navigating the rental car through the narrow streets in Arles.
Best surprise Exploring the deserted castle at Beynac. Exploring the deserted castle at Beynac.
Worst surprise Getting kicked off the plane at SFO right after we boarded. Jellied meat appetizer in Arles.
Favorite memory Horseback riding at Fonluc. 50th anniversary lunch with Mike’s parents.
Biggest regret Not going to the bullfight outside St.-Remy Packing too much.
Best French customer service Hotel staff in Arles helping us with the car. Hotel staff in Arles helping us with the car.
Worst French customer service Refusal to make change at Belgian ale house in Paris. Refusal to make change at Belgian ale house in Paris

*The villa in Monpazier was easily the nicest place we stayed, but can’t really be compared to the other hotels.

Castles, flamingoes, and Roman ruins

A quick update: we left Monpazier on Thursday morning, and learned the hard way that the GPS in our car has a few glitches. At one point, it showed us traveling across an empty swath of green pixels (which I definitely would have noticed, instead of the highway we were actually on). When it did locate us on an actual road again, it was off by several kilometers from our real location.

Nevertheless, we did make it to Carcassone where we spent the night inside the castle walls. In fact, we got a surprise upgrade from the 3-star hotel we had booked to the 5-star Hotel de la Citė, due to a problem of some sort with our original room. We had a nice (but very windy) dinner at an outdoor cafe overlooking the fortress, then wandered around the ramparts a bit before bed.

Flamingoes!

Flamingoes!

The next morning we toured the Carcassonne castle along with the rest of the Western world, plus a large delegation from Japan. We finally fled the crowds a bit before noon, driving a couple hours to the peace and quiet of the Camargue–a warm and sunny area of sandy marshlands where the Rhône river flows into the Mediterranean. There we saw white horses and pink flamingoes at a nature preserve, ate french fries and ice cream at a seaside town that kinda seemed like the Jersey Shore of France, and dipped our toes in the chilly sea. Then it was time to head back north 30 km or so to Arles.

View from our hotel of the place next door. It's supposed to be very nice, but I don't think I could stay there without giggling at the name constantly.

View from our hotel of the place next door. It’s supposed to be very nice, but I don’t think I could stay there without giggling at the name constantly.

Arles is a gritty but lively city with lots of Roman ruins, including an amphitheater reminiscent of the more famous Coliseum in actual Rome. We had a few nervous moments squeezing our rental car through the narrow streets to our hotel, where the staff took pity on the panic in my eyes and allowed us to park illegally in their loading zone, rather than braving the tiny alleyways again to try and find the garage.

We walked around the old city for a while, found a nice place for dinner, and then hung out in the bustling square in front of our hotel for a drink. Back in our room, we fell asleep to the sounds of younger and hipper people enjoying many drinks of their own in the very same square.

I can’t believe we only have four more nights in France!

Finally, the sun!

After what seemed like an endless stretch of cool, cloudy days, we finally have a day of warm sunshine, offering Mike a chance to use the pool here at the villa before we depart for Provence tomorrow.

Despite the gloomy weather, we’ve had a great time in and around Monpazier. Maureen successfully fought off an aggressive cold, and yesterday afternoon we went for a 6-hour horseback ride at a farm about 30km (check me out, using the metric system after just two weeks in Europe!) north of here. Throw in some great meals, countless adorable villages, and dramatic old castles straight out of Game of Thrones, and it’s been a fantastic five days.

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Roz and “Big Mike,” chasing warmer weather (we hope!) in Provence and on the Riviera. I’d promise you some photos, but I’m guessing I’ve lost any credibility on that score by now.

Where are we?

We continue to have pretty flaky internet at our hotels, so photos are going to have to wait at least until we get to the villa on Saturday (assuming the connection is better there).

But here’s a quick update on the last couple days:

  • Wednesday we were up and out early, for a full day of touring the D-Day (“Jour J,” in French) invasion sites in Normandy. It was both somber and inspiring.
  • That evening we arrived at Mont Saint-Michel after the throngs of daytrippers had departed, and spent the night on the island. What an amazingly magical experience—especially walking around the tidal flats after dusk.
  • Today we drove to Amboise, a lovely town on the Loire with a big honkin’ chateau (nod to Elton John intended) perched on the river bank.

Tomorrow we’re off to meet Mike’s parents again in La Rochelle, before heading to the villa on Saturday.

Bonjour, Honfleur!

I think Maureen has found her favorite place on earth. (Outside of Iowa, of course!)

20130619-074355.jpgHonfleur is an astonishingly lovely town where the Seine River flows into the English Channel. Impressionist painters flocked to this area for the unique light, and there honestly does seem to be something special in the air here. The “Vieux Bassin” (Old Harbor), which our hotel room overlooks, is a rectangle of water surrounded on three sides by cafes and restaurants. But it’s also a working fishing port—mainly for shrimp, I think.

With the summer solstice just a few days away, it didn’t get dark until almost 11 last night. And Maureen squeezed every bit of light out of the evening, first sitting at a cafe with her sketchbook and watercolors, and then stalking the harbor area with the camera, endlessly repeating “Do you see it?”.

I know we’re well behind in posting photos. But the Internet here is just way too slow, and frankly we just can’t bear the thought of sitting in our hotel room watching an upload progress bar crawl across the screen while we know there’s so much to see outside!

Stormy Monday

Woke up to le tonnerre (thunder) in Paris. The storm lasted most of the morning, with some of the blackest skies I’ve ever seen—quite literally as dark as night (which ain’t saying all that much, since it’s been staying light until well after 10 p.m.

We hid down in the hotel’s breakfast room for a while, as it was raining too hard to even think about going outside. That experience validated our decision to eat elsewhere up until now, as the selection was unimpressive and the coffee, from a machine, really made me miss the wonderful cafes au lait I’ve had in Paris.

While we wait for the remnants of the storm to pass through, it seems like a good time to summarize our activities of the past couple days.

At Place des Vosges in the Marais neighborhood.

At Place des Vosges in the Marais neighborhood.

Friday night, after returning from Versailles, we strolled around the Marais neighborhood, which was buzzing with activity on a nice June evening. We ate a late meal at the Grizzli Cafe on our way back to the hotel, where we quickly passed out after a long afternoon and evening of walking.

On Saturday morning, we hiked down to Rue Mouffetard to check out the market scene. Then we hiked all the way back to the Seine, double-time, to meet Mike’s parents at Sennelier, an art store where Cezanne and Picasso bought their supplies. After Roz and Mike treated Maureen to an early birthday shopping spree, we took the Metro to lunch at the Guy Martin Italia restaurant in the 6th arrondissement. Finally, we trucked back up to the 1st arrondissement to check out Monet’s water lillies (inspiration for Maureen and her new art supplies?) at L’Orangerie. We haven’t had time to post our photos yet, but you can check out Roz’s here.

View from the top of the dome at Sacre Coeur.

View from the top of the dome at Sacre Coeur.

Sunday was the prettiest day yet, with blue skies and warm sunshine. We decided to spend it visiting Montmartre, where we climbed to the top of Sacre Coeur cathedral, walked in the footsteps of Picasso, Renoir, and Toulouse-Lautrec, and had a fantastic lunch just off Place du Tertre at Chez Plumeau. After walking back to our hotel, we spent the tail end of the afternoon exploring the immediate evirons: drinks at the Au Trappiste cafe, dinner at Le Cafe Zimmer, and a late night stroll around Île St. Louis.

My finger is actually sore from taking so many photos, so look for a more detailed write-up with pictures coming soon. But now, as the sun is finally breaking through the clouds, we’ve got more sightseeing to do—this is our last day in Paris. Au revoir!

King me!

On Friday morning we got up early, grabbed a couple pastries to go from the boulangerie around the corner, and caught the train to Versailles—home to a bunch of guys named Louis during the 17th and 18th centuries. (Helpful tip in case you ever visit: although the monarchs who lived here were known as the “House of Bourbon,” they don’t actually serve any whiskey on the tour. Try the tequila instead.)

Check out our photos below. As always, click any thumbnail image to see a slide show.
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A rainy day in Paris

Thursday was cool and drizzly, but we had a full day in Paris: monuments, museums, meals, and Montparnasse.

Spent the morning exploring the oldest part of the city, Île St. Louis, including Sainte Chapelle and Notre Dame. Fled to the Musée D’Orsay to escape the rain and for Maureen to sketch. Then met Mike’s parents–also visiting Paris—for dinner in the Montparnasse neighborhood where they are staying.

While we head out to Versailles this morning, you can check out our photos from Thursday below (click any thumbnail picture for a slideshow).
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